Monday, December 22, 2008

Stagier: French for "Indentured Servant"

In the restaurant industry, there's a practice known as "staging." (Pronounced with a long "a," as if it rhymes with dodge) Essentially, someone interested in seeing how a particular restaurant works contacts the chef, and requests a one-day (or more) internship. This indentured servitude is then rewarded (by the better restaurants) with kind treatment, recipe / procedure transparency, and the chance to walk in the shoes of one of an employee.

Regardless of the word's history, this level of transparency within a business can seem somewhat foreign to a lot of my friends. Non Disclosure Agreements (and other such contractual guarantees of silence) make a completely open door essentially non-exsistant to them. I've gotta say though, since making my career switch, i have become a huge believer in the power of an open door. The ability to see "how the other side lives" so to speak is something that allows food-related professionals constant access to knowledge and inspiration, two things that are always in demand. Unfortunately though, there's a huge debate within the industry as far as HOW MUCH information should be divulged to one of these interns. Should a guest be privy to all the recipes he/she can cram into memory that day, or should there be some be guarded secrets? Are signature items completely off the grid, or is EVERYTHING fair game? Well, I suppose it's all a matter of opinion and so it's up to the chef to decide what he/she is comfortable divulging. In my experience, those chefs who were secure enough to share their full knowledge base have been the most successful within the industry. They find comfort in open discussions, inquisitive minds, and even the occasional heated debate. You see, the food industry is a strange place. When someone cooks they invest themselves so heavily in the products they produce that it becomes extremely personal. So much so, that there are plenty of times that it's nearly impossible to pull yourself back and say "ok, how do I like this composition of flavors/textures thus far?" I wouldn't know it yet, but I suppose it'd be like asking a parent to objectively judge their child against all others. Sure, there would always be flaws, it's just a matter of what flaws are most obvious, and how severe those flaws TRULY are. For that reason, I find it extremely important to be open to discussion, critique, and hope that as long as we can keep things civil, this level of communication will yeild a better, more refined outcome.

Anywho, what I'm driving at is that there are plenty of chefs who I feel demonstrate what it is to be professional, open, and confident. For the last two weeks, (and until i'm employed once again..hah) I've had the pleasure of visiting a bunch of great restaurants around New York. I've been extremely picky about who i'd like to visit, and it's really helped me narrow-down what the qualities are of the next environment i'd like to work. The place has to be high quality, intimate, creative, free-thinking (not bound to any stupid rules like "oh, chef ____ ONLY wants desserts like this"), and, more important than anything else, welcoming.

If I could work anywhere now, it'd be Le Bernardin. I've waxed poetic about everything from the clean, vibrant symphony of flavors that are the desserts, to the staff which has (on multiple occasions) treated me as one of their own. A restaurant like that has a lot to teach cooks, and of course, has set a great example for me to use at a place of my own (in a few years). Unfortunately though, my schoolgirl-like crush on a position there is going to have to remain a fantasy until by some divine miracle a spot opens up. I'll jam my foot in the door as long as I can, but the realities of rent, food, and running water have a habit of sneaking up on me.

Anywho, for now i'm going to head home to Baltimore for the week. Assuming all goes well, i'll be relocating (as permanently as a twenty-something can) back to NYC for the New Year. =)

Until we meet again, have a Chappy Channukah, a Killer Kwanza, and a Merry X-mas.

CIAO!!!

....also, random Hot CD: Kid Cudi - Plain Pat & Emile Presents a KiD named CuDi

Enjoy!

Thursday, December 4, 2008

Italia in Fast Forward

Massarosa -> Viareggio -> Florence -> Venice -> Milan -> Pisa -> Naples -> Sorrento -> Vesuvius -> The Amalfi Coast -> Vietri Sul Mare -> Reggio Calabria -> Messina -> Taormina -> Castelmola -> Catania -> Mt Etna -> Vietri Sul Mare (again!) -> Siena -> Chianti -> Viareggio -> New York -> Baltimore

Any quesions?


Ok ok, so that doesn't really say much. Actually, if you hadn't read anything before this, that seemling random string of places seems absolutely non-sensical. Fortunately however, there is in fact a method to this madness.

What you see above is a brief itinerary of the three week adventure my parents & I completed. Now, in the interest of full disclosure I should say that my sister joined us for the first week, so from Massarosa to Pisa, we got to see Italy as a full family. Afterwords however, it was back to the triumphs and tribulations of the Rosen Trio.

Basically the trip consisted of short "sprint" drives where we would cover a few hours on the autostrada and stop wherever the scenery became most interesting. WIthout that mentality, I can almost guarantee we would've never enjoyed the company of an amazing family that took us in in Vietri Sul Mare, or the hilariously dysfunctional Mother-Son culinary team we met at a restaurant on the top of a mountain in Castelmola. Honestly, it had its frustrations, but it really was an amazing way to travel. As I'd anticipated, my Italian certainly was pushed to it's bounds as it became more and more clear that simply trying to converse with people for 6 months does not make you anything close to a countrymen. There were mixups and fudges of seemingly monumental proportions, but of course when it all came into perspective, I can only be thankful for the chance to see everything as we did.

I do have to mention though, when i finished my time with Sandra & the gang at Toscana Saporita, I felt that I had reached a comfortable end. I felt as if we had our time, but it was time to do/see something else. However, as I stared out the window of our plane and the engine's thrust squished me back into my seat, the scenery began to pull away, and the idea of going home finally set in, I developed a bit of a pit in my stomach. I couldn't believe that I was leaving. More so, I felt physically disturbed. It was as if my organs had decided to stay, but my body was being dragged along. For the first time, I really felt very unhappy with the idea of leaving, and it hit me hard.

As we cruised at 30,000 ft over the Atlantic I thought about it more and more:

What had I really set in motion by coming home?

Where am I going now?

and more importantly, How on Earth am I going to get there?

Honestly, I have no idea. BUT, I will say that living abroad made a lasting impression on me. For the first time, I truly understand what it's like to walk in an ex-pat's shoes.

A few years ago I had an intimate relationship with someone who took time to live abroad. When this person returned home, I had no doubt that something was different. A lot had remained the same, but there was something intangible that truly altered our dynamic. When I stepped off that plane and thought about seeing my friends again it dawned on me. For the first time in my life I understand that position. I don't know exactly what's changed, but I feel different. I feel as if, although the physical distance is gone, there is still some psychological distance between myself and people at home. It's as if there's some force imposing this feeling outside of my control, and I truly wonder when I'll feel fully welcomed back into the world of living as an American. I mean, to go back to my previous point, I'm sure I did what I could to maintain consistency a few years ago, but I'll tell you, I never expected the other side to be like this. To this person's credit, it takes a hell of a lot to re-calibrate back to being home. I don't know if I'll ever fully adjust, but I can say for sure, this will not have been my last ExPat experience.

The bug has bitten....


Let see when the itch comes back. =P

Until next time, CIAO!

(oh, and pics to come... don't worry! I'm transferring to a new computer so it may take a bit)

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Every end is a new beginning....

Well, as they say, my time has come. I honestly can’t believe so much time has gone by but October 31st marked my last day at Toscana Saporita.

Wow.

Honestly, it’s somewhat surreal to finally see it on “paper.” This town, this job, this lifestyle has been such a dominant force around me for the last 7 months that I think it’s going to be really strange to be without it. What will I do without seeing Anto on the couch every morning before work? Who’s going to light up the kitchen every day like Sa? Who’s going to bust my balls every night like Ila? =) And more importantly, where will I go to get my espresso “corrected”? [hah! Time to get an espresso machine =)]

Honestly, this was an experience that I wouldn’t have had any other way. I’ve met some amazing people, made some amazing food, drank some amazing wine, and seen a world outside of everything I thought I knew. I’m truly grateful to everyone who helped shape my time in Tuscany and I say from the bottom of my heart that each and every one of them will always have a home wherever I am.

As for the next move, my parents have FINALLY come to visit, so the next three weeks’ll be spent exploring Italy with them. Some of it I’ve seen, some of it’s totally new, but ALL of it’ll be an adventure. Lets see how good my Italian’s gotten!

Ciao Ciao!!

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

SPAIN 3.0

Wow, it's been a few weeks since I've last posted and so much has happened it's out of control.

That being said, lets rewind to Saturday Oct 18th....

With a week off and a whole world to explore, Justin, David & I hopped a cheap Ryanair flight to Barcelona. Getting in late at night, we decided to forgo the hotel / hostel for one night and spend the night wandering the city. After hours of exploration (and strange Indian men seeming to pop up EVERYWHERE hocking Estrella Damm Beer for 50 Euro Cents), we made our way across the city to the beach and sat down there for impending sunrise. Soon after, the smell of freshly baked breads / pastries wafted through the air and we set off for a quick and easy breakfast...

[Now, as a side note, I had a FANTASTIC week in Spain. It was so great to spend a culinary bonanza like that with people like Justin and David that I could happily go into excruciating detail describing every aspect of our week abroad. However, this would be amazing to some and horrendously boring to others, so i'll try and trim it down to the big, meaty points.... mmm, meaty]

Ok, back to Barcelona. =)

SO, after wandering around all night, we were exhausted. We finally got ourselves to the apartment we rented, got settled, and dropped off a ton of our stuff. Shortly after we began our Barcelona blitz, hittin the city hard with a bus tour complete with (smuggled) wine service, gorgeous scenery, and a visit to the chocolate shop of one of the world's premier pastry chefs Oriol Balaguer. We even found ourselves an Italian Aperitivo Bar in Barcelona one evening and couldn't resist getting a little taste of our (new) Italain home while away.

After 3 days of Barcelona, it was time to bid "Adios" to Catalonia, and hit the road for San Sebastian, a 5 hour drive across Northern Spain into the Basque Region. To do so, we headed back to the airport and picked up the 3rd Fiat Punto i've rented yet. (Gotta say, for a cheap car with lots of space you've gotta love the Punto!! OK ok, enough of my shameless plugs) After a few hours on the road, hunger set in and a quick meal was in order. We stopped in a random town along the way, and had an amazing (3 course) meal for an astoundingly cheap 9 Euro. Shortly after, we were back on the road, and found ourselves passing the town of Pamplona. Without being able to resist, we pulled off the highway and spent a bit driving around Pamplona, getting a quick bite to eat, and enjoying the fact that the car would afford us all kinds of opportunities like that should we want them.

Not long after Pamplona, we arrived in San Sebastian. Our hostel was positioned right off the beach in a great location, and was filled with so many twenty-somethings that it basically functioned as an overseas college dorm. The town itself was an amazing blend of history, extremely thoughtful (and aesthetically pleasing) architecture, incredibly nice people, and knock-out food. We spent the majority of our time wandering around the harbor / old city, exploring the mountain roads overlooking the area, getting to know (and going out with) the other kids in the hostel, and mentally prepping ourselves for arguably the best restaurant experience any of us had encountered in our entire lives.

That being said, the meal i'm referring to is one we enjoyed at a restaurant called Arzak. I can only describe to you a small percentage of what the actual meal was like, but suffice it to say it's one we won't be one any of us'll forget for a LONG time. Essentially, this is a restaurant that already sits on the list of the top ten restaurants in the world. It's tasting menu is a comprehensive tour of the culinary play that Juan Mari and his daughter Elena has created and maintained for MANY years. (Arzak recieved it's 3rd Michelin Star in 1989 and has held it since) That menu alone is fantastic and needs no adjustment. Fortunately though, I had the incredible fortune of being put in touch with the Maitre D' through a great friend of mine, and as such got to hear something everyone dreams of hearing at a restaurant of that calibre, "Put your menus away, If you'll allow us, we've prepared something special for you."

21 Plates later, we were satiated with probably the best meal that has graced my pallet. During the meal itself Juan Mari personally visited the table TWICE to ask how the meal was progressing, and at the end, we were privy to a private tour of the kitchen and the wine cellar. To put it bluntly, I was completely beside myself. Oh, and if that wasn't enough, as the restaurant was breaking down and cleaning up, the Maitre D' asked us "So, are you staying in San Sebastian." To which I of course replied "Oh yeah, right down on the beach." "Great" he said, "What are your plans for tomorrow?" HAH! "As of yet, nothing. We're just planning on wandering around the city and taking it easy." I replied. "Ok, well if you'd like to come back at around noon I'd love to show you around the Labratory where we develop all of our ideas."

...Umm, wow. Not bad eh? So yeah, all in all it was an incredible culinary experience. I'm extremely grateful to the people of Arzak as a whole, and I can't wait to bestow something like that upon a fan of mine one day.

That afternoon, we rode out the two day high that was our meal, finished up our time seeing the sites of San Sebastian, and tied up our trip with a last-hoorah with most of the kids in the hostel.

As we drove back to the airport the next morning we were a little banged up and happy to just listen to our two favorite roadtrip cd's (Mute Math - Mute Math, & The Killers - Hot Fuss) and silently reflect on one hell of a trip. There were so many stories and jokes to remember I can only hope we keep reminding ourselves how great a time we had.

I know it's only scratching the surface, but here are a tiny tiny few of the 906 photos that fully describe our week in Spain:

SPAIN 3.0


ENJOY!

Friday, October 17, 2008

Happy B-day... TO ME!

The days are getting a little bit cooler, the olive trees are filling out nicely, and the nights are developing the crisp air of winter; Man, I love this time of year!

As you may have guessed, this is also birthday time for me. =) Recently, we've been enjoying some beautiful days, and nights crisp and cool enough to build a comforting, warming fire. As I mentioned before, the olive trees have started to tint their fruit dark purple, and the huge nets have been spread in the orchards surrounding our house. Actually, now that i think about it, it reminds me of the Gates exhibit in Central Park. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Gates) For those of you who haven't had a chance to see either the Gates exhibit, or the olive harvest, it's as if someone suddenly colorized the countryside. It's really quite beautiful!



Well, soon the olive pressing'll begin and fresh oil'll start to flow from the Frantoio (Olive press). I really hope it starts soon so that I'll have time to grab some fresh focaccia, sprint over to the presses, and catch some of the fresh oil for a snack!

Anywho, in the last week we've started to see lots of "Sagre"spring up around the countryside. Essentially, a Sagra is an open dinner for anyone and everyone to come and enjoy regional cuisine centered around a specific food or ingredient. Recently, we had a chance to go to the Sagra della Castange, which roughly translates to the "Chesnut Festival." There, we paid minimal prices for a HUGE Stinko (pork shank.....mmmmmmm, delicious) and a healthy portion of Ribollita (delicious Tuscan stew).



Then, AFTER eating all that, we were privy to tons and tons of roasted chesnuts, singing, dancing, delicious fried sandwiches called "Quartuccio", and lots and lots of wine. (heh... as if we don't do that EVERY day) I mean, if you don't expect to eat your brains out in Italy, you're in the wrong country.

After the Sagra, it was time to go back to work, teaching, and cooking for a new group of students. This week was a bit older than we usually get, but all in all they were extremely sincere and a true pleasure to have for the week. For our Thursday (buffet) lunch dessert I decided to make a ton of Bombolone (Italian Doughnuts), which i'm happy to say came out great. =)




This week was definitely a welcome change from the last few weeks of high maintenance groups, and a great way to get nice and recharged for next week our TRIP TO SPAIN!!!

That's right folks, just for the hell of it yours truly (along with two other chefs, David & Justin) are heading to Barcelona for a few days, renting a car, and road-tripping it to Spain's Basque country!!! This is a trip i've been dying to do since I graduated from culinary school so I couldn't be more excited about it. As soon as we get settled in Barcelona, i'll be tracking down a ton of the Spanish chefs i've been reading about for years now and FINALLY be able to see their work in person. I can't wait!!!

Oh man, my camera's memory card's gunna take a beating this week!

Until i return, take care & ciao!!!

Oh, and to everyone back home who was kind enough to send birthday notes, that really meant a lot to me. I miss you all a ton!
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Thursday, October 9, 2008

Thursday, Bloody Thursday


Ciao all, or should i say: Good Yontif!!

Today (for all the goyim out there) was in fact Yom Kippur. As such, I didn't eat a bit all day and as such, had to do everything I could to fight the urge to become a raging bastard. (Unfortunately, the lack of food seems to manifest itself in the worst way with me) Fortunately, I succeeded and finished the day, reflecting on the past year and centering myself for the upcoming year.

Now, as the schedule would typically have it, today was pizza day! SOOO, as promised, here is my photo-journalistic approach to our pizza night. ENJOY!:

Pizza Time!

Oh, and as a side note, i broke the fast with one of my favorite Tuscan soups called Ribollita and a BIG JUICY hamburger on a brioche bun (THAT I MADE!!). Just for some fun, here's a picture of the burger, and a few to describe the last few days as well:


Justin + Hamburger = Delicious!

Creme Brulee lesson time!


Oh Davide, found glass bottles almost always spell trouble


Ciao ragazzi!!
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Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Happy New Year!!

L'Shana Tova!!

It's now 5769, and it's definitely time to kick off a new year. This past week was unusually taxing, demanding much more time and energy than a typical group. From wandering eyes to constant coversation, it was especially difficult to maintain each and everyone of their attention spans. As such, i'm a bit drained mentally and hoping for something bit lower key for the next week or so to recouperate. This experience has certainly given me a ton more repect for my old professors and I've gotta say, I'm sure I wasn't the easiest to teach either.

So, to them I say a very heartfelt thank you. Your styles have all rubbed off on me, and taught me that it's through your methods of cheesily joking with classes, imparting as much usable knowledge as possible, and always trying to go the extra mile for a student that have really made this experience great.

On that note, one of the most recent student concerns has been bread baking. SOOOO, i took it upon myself to attempt my own lean dough here. (Lean dough = Flour, Water, Yeast, Salt) That being said, the endeavor went pretty well. Originally i wanted to use our brick oven, but it turned out to be so insanely hot that it charred the outside of one of the Baguettes before it could cook all the way through. I then baked the rest in our convection oven and got some pretty good results.


Proofed Baguette Dough
(ready to bake)


Baked Lean Dough

The crumb was ok (kinda tight, but i'm sure that's splitting hairs for a lot of people), and the crust was about the same. (definitely could use some moisture in the initial 5-8 minutes of baking) I'm sure i'll try adding some boiling water in the bottom of the oven next time to provide some basic steam and allow the crust to expand and take on a much thinner, darker crust.

Until next time, the grapes are 'bout ready to harvest so i'm goin to go pick some to nibble on before they're all gone....

CIAO!!!

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